In 1988, Robert DeNiro paid a visit to Nobu Matsuhisa’s eponymous L.A. restaurant and ate a certain kind of Black Cod with Miso. Four years later, the pair established Nobu New York, and their creation has preserved a place on the global scene ever since. A waiter at the restaurant of Nobu Hotel Portman Square, the most recently opened U.K. outpost of an empire that now spans five continents, relays this story with evident relish after a tumultuous year, delivering a perfect plate of the same business-starting cod as he speaks.
It was a shaky start for Nobu Hotel Portman Square in Marylebone, with Covid delaying the opening multiple times. But now it is fully open and utterly pristine, from its minimal, technologically faultless suites to the gleaming, state-of-the-art Pilates studio on the ground floor.
From the moment you enter through the revolving glass doors, everything exudes a sense of calm. In the lobby, a vast shining silver piece by kinetic sculptor Ivan Black is suspended from the soaring ceiling, rotating hypnotically as if wafted by some unfelt breeze. From the luxe double rooms to the Zen Suite and Nobu Penthouse, natural materials meld seamlessly with contemporary details, all underpinned by characteristically reassuring Japanese design.
Simmons mattresses draped in 400 thread count linen form the cloud-like beds, with muted tones, sliding doors and clean lines adding to the air of peaceful luxury. The technology is advanced, with clever day-to-night mode lighting and immaculate bathrooms, but never obtrusive. Pleasing touches include Yukata robes, Nespresso machines, traditional Japanese tea sets and Grown Alchemist products.
In the buzzing, airy restaurant filled with well-heeled family groups and couples, Nobu’s signature dishes are as good as they’ve always been, from the aforementioned Miso Black Cod to yellowtail sashimi and rock shrimp tempura. For those after something new, there are exclusive sakes and lesser known dishes, from Creamy Spicy Snow Crab to the most glorious Japanese Wagyu Beef and, of course, endless, supremely fresh sushi. Breakfast, served in the relaxed, airy “Lounge” off the lobby, is a more unexpected delight, with delicate coconut chia bowls strewn with strawberry and lime and addictively crisp Yuzu Crab benedict. There’s also absolutely perfect coffee and enough health-reviving cold-pressed juices to make you feel you could be in L.A. as opposed to steps from Marylebone High Street—which is really just as good.
The fitness facilities here are better than the average boutique gym, with 24-hour access to equipment that looks brand new, and can be used with a workout-tracking app or private personal training plans. But the jewel in the crown is the full Pilates studio; headed up by Marsha Lindsay, the studio is fast becoming a mecca for fitness enthusiasts in the capital, with one-to-one and private sessions on offer that will win over even the Pilates-averse with carefully tailored guidance and very convincing results. There are also three beautiful rooms for dreamy spa treatments, including Nobu Zen, which combines stretching and massage techniques to balance the body and harmonise the mind. And after the year that’s been, everyone is in need of that.
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August 12, 2021 at 10:00PM
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Nobu Hotel Portman Square: Hot Hotels - Vanity Fair
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